Madi A Thavha - Water from the Mountains
Venda – the word itself conjours up images of python dances, sacred forests and ancient traditional beliefs. And, in a way, it is just that; magical, cultural, friendly, welcoming.
Venda, as the area is known, is what was once known as a tribal homeland ( areas designated during Apartheid to keep certain colours…and tribes… of people together. ) Many homelands were formed, but after apartheid were disassociated, and no longer referred to. None other have, through this, formed a sense of place and identity as has Venda. The area is nestled along the foothills of the Soutpansberg mountains, situated near Botswana, Mapungubwe National Park, Kruger National Parks Pafuri Gate, and even Zimbabwe, so it at an important crossroads for tourism, international travel, wildlife and people. Several cultures call this area home, the Venda, Tsonga and Northern Sotho. As you travel and learn you will understand the cultural complexities, differences and nuances. It is a special place.
We were fortunate enough to spend this last weekend in Venda – letting her work her magic, and getting to see briefly a little of the amazing crafts and art of this landscape. We were hosted by one of our Fair Trade venues that we showcase at Woza Travel – Madi a Thavha ( meaning water from the mountain.) Madi A Thavha is luxury, with an emphasis on sustainable tourism to benefit the community. What could be better!
We drove through Friday afternoon, watching as the landscape changed from the Urban metropolis of Pretoria - where the Jacaranda trees are just starting to tinge the streets with purple. Once outside the city and heading North - the landscape changes, becomes drier, and the African savanna and thorn-veld remind you that you are indeed travelling...and that Africa is a land of contrasts. Turning into Madi A Thavha the scenery is different yet again - the skyline is dominated by the majestic Soutpansberg Mountain range - the air is cool and soft as sunset approaches. Madi A Thavha is a jewel of green, a burst of colour at the foothills of the mountain, tucked away in thick emerald bush, a living breathing artists landscape. We had arrived.
That evening a deliciously simply, but beautiful, meal was served in the dining area before we headed back to our room - The room itself was a sensory experience; exposed copper plumbing, shwe-shwe ( traditional fabric) cushions and decor, art pieces with information on their creator, and even joy-of-joys, real filter coffee. Sitting outside after dinner listening to the enchanting call of the fiery necked nightjar, one feels connected yet disconnected... connected to the earth -- to yourself---to the people that inhabit this space around you... and disconnected from city life, and modern hassles, which though not that far removed, seem like a million miles away.
We awoke the next morning to a flock of crested guinea fowl pecking around in the bushes just outside our door. After a delicious breakfast, and fuelled up on more good coffee, we headed off on our Elim Arts & Culture tour, with Musa, our tour guide who was born and grew up in the neighbouring village of Elim. The tour is something that cannot be adequately described, but must be experienced. Informal markets with their sense of entrepreneurship, stalls at each corner selling varieties of foods, wares, grains, and even dried Mopane worms! No part of an animal is wasted as restaurants sell chickens heads & feet, lamb intestine stew and so much more. Music thrums through the air, the crowd of people pulsate with life, people selling wares, children on a day in town, people offloading bags of Mopane worms from a crowded bakkie. This is life in semi- urban Africa. After spending some time shopping for vibrant African fabrics we are off to experience the more rural villages, and to visit a few of the renown crafters. Craft and Art in Venda has become well known for its amazing wooden sculptures and clay pottery, and we were fortunate enough to visit several of these inspirational artists. First stop - a pottery center run by local talented women!
Lunch was served under a big tree at the Mukondeni Pottery Village - Madi a Thavha had packed us a real treat! The women running the pottery cooperative showed us how to make a clay pot. They had the ability to make it look so simple - and in this act one recognises their expertise and true craftmanship! A yard filled with pots of all shapes and sizes, glazed reds silvers, black... We wished we could take it all home! But instead settled for a small momento of this special place, and these special women- 2 hand crafted coffee mugs. We will remember the spirit of this place every time we have our morning coffee!
With our newly acquired treasures; we set off again to visit a local woodcarver, and musician - protege of local legend Thomas Kubayi. Amazing pseudo-mythical wood carvings each tell a story and throughout the yard old pieces of wood are shaped into fish, animals, or people. The wood, they say, tell them their own story - and reveal themselves. With this passion Thomas Kubayi founded the Vutsilaart Cultural Village and School of Art, and their little gallery houses many beautiful sculptures... and even a mini music center ( complete with "soundproof" studio made of upcycled egg cartons ) - we enjoyed a couple minutes of AMAZING local music on hand made instruments, and I would buy their CDs in a heartbeat. The beat and pulse of the earth and her sounds is carried through in the hands and hearts of people like this!
Lucky Ntimani, our next stop, has a small group of children that he teaches his skills to. He believes a big part of his journey is sharing his skills with the younger generation, and several of the wood carvings for sale at his house were from his aspiring youth; who also put on a small show on their instruments. Such amazing local talent and at such a young age- you can see that music is a lifeblood in Africa. After several more stops ( along dusty village roads, which Musa navigated expertly - sharing with us stories of the local area and his childhood ) we reached our last stop of the day - a rural homestead which we could visit to showcase life in a Venda family. In the yard - the Marula tree... where one communicates with the ancestors, chickens roaming free... Rondawel huts, one a smoky kitchen with the fire going to cook an evening meal... A woman sitting outside on a mat, preparing local spinach ( marog) for dinner, harvested from the garden. And the floor... a mixture of cowdung and water, cleverly applied and left to dry, before patterns were etched in. This is an age old tradition, and creates a beautiful strong floor and it is special to see these traditions being kept alive. We asked if we could visit again after the rainy season ( when they have to put a new coat of cowdung on the floor ) - to learn... they said we would be welcomed. So we warn you Venda, we will be back - we are hooked.
Before i carry on - i will take a second to apologise for the quality of the photos. They in no way do justice to the colour, beauty and simplicity of Madi A Thavha and our Elim Arts tour. I was so enchanted along the way i would forget to take photos, and then whip out my old Samsung at the last minute to take a quick snapshot. The memories and moments however, reside crystal clear in my heart and memory. So i encourage you - go- take this special journey for yourself.
That afternoon we got home a little hot and tired from a day spent in the sun on tour, but still managed a little time at the Dancing Fish Gallery at Madi A Thavha - a preservation of local cultural and historical artefacts and stories. It was interesting to read about the history of this area, and her people - as well as the stories behind the different art and bead work one sees. It is good to see places that preserve the cultural importance behind the art, and whilst job creation and perhaps larger scale production of traditional crafts is important, it is equally important that one realises that many of these objects played a larger more significant role in the lives of many of these people and their rituals - and to remember these. We were spoilt with a second beautiful evening dinner before falling asleep to soft rain on the roof of our little "Backpacker house".
Our last morning we were up early yet again, to exchange fond farewells with Aart and Marcelle - the owners and gracious hosts at Madi a Thavha. Their commitment to uplifting individuals through sustainable tourism (Fair Trade Tourism) was so wonderful for us to see and experience, and the income generation and exposure to the talented artists an inspiration. We left armed with a heart full of promises to return and a map to Lake Fundudzi Viewpoint... Lake Funduzi is a lake in the area where local young women hold their initiation rites - and believed to be ruled over by the Python God of Fertility. One cannot simply visit the lake or walk to her waters without permission/the Chief's blessing. So with this last mythical mystical story etched into our minds we set off on our next adventure on the way home.
Thank you to Madi A Thavha for being such a wonderful introduction to Venda and her many stories and treasures, and to Musa, for sharing a few of those with us!